Posts Tagged ‘photography tips’

Canon 100-400 mark II – salient features

Monday, July 18th, 2016


Canon 100-400 mark II

 3 modes of IS

Mode 1 -  Standard IS mode designed for use with stationary subjects when the Canon 100-400 IS ii & the camera is handheld

Mode 2 – is used for panning with a subject. In this mode, only 1 axis of stabilization is provided – allowing a linearly-moving subject to be tracked. Up and down movement tend to be difficult to track

Mode 3 – is great for action photography. In Mode 3, image stabilization is active and ready for use the moment the shutter releases, but actual stabilization is not in effect until that precise time. You are able to follow your erratically-moving subjects without fighting against image stabilization   The IS system auto-senses a tripod in use

Quick Auto focus The zoom is a quick performer, taking about 0.15 seconds to lock onto the subject when mounted on the Canon EOS 5D Mark III.


A completely new inner-focusing system has been implemented in this lens.

A 2-position focus limiter switch is provided, allowing focusing distances to be limited to a specific distance range (9.84′/3m – 8) – or to be unlimited (Full). Limiting the focus distance range can improve focus lock times and reduce focus hunting.

This lens is not parfocal, meaning that refocusing is required after zooming. This is especially true at short focus distances where the subjects very obviously go into and out of focus during zooming. Using the near-parfocal feature of this lens is helpful for video recording while adjusting focal lengths. Video shooters will definitely appreciate the fact that subjects do not significantly change in size as they go in and out of focus

Polariser users will be happy that the 77mm filter thread doesn’t rotate on focus.

Decreased Minimum Focus Distance (MFD) This lens has an MFD of 980mm. (earlier lens MFD was 1800mm)

Increased Magnification This lens has a magnification of 0.31x. (earlier lens MFD was 0.2x)

Build –  This is a solidly built lens

The 100-400 II’s front and rear lens surfaces are fluorine coated to reduce water droplet, dust and fingerprint adhesion and to ease the cleaning effort required. This coating works great – the difference is noticeable.

Push Pull Zoom replaced with rotational zoom -  The rotating zoom ring gives more precise adjustment between focal lengths. The ring comes with a zoom torque adjustment ring allowing you to set the zoom ring from “Smooth” to “Tight” to suit your particular way of shooting.

The final control on the lens barrel is a focus mode switch with the usual AF/MF settings. Note that this lens usefully offers full-time manual focusing even when AF is selected.

Lens elements It has 21 lens elements in 16 groups (up from 17/14) into a telephoto lens design

Air Sphere Coating The new Air Sphere Coating (ASC) had been introduced on this lens. According to Canon: “The new Air Sphere Coating has been developed by Canon to minimise reflections and flare.

In the nutshell : The Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS II is a worthy replacement to the original 100-400. Not to forget the original 100-400 continues to be a great lens.

Tripods and tracks give great steady images but are they practical always?

Wednesday, May 4th, 2016


Time : Setting a track trolley and tripod needs time and space.                                     

Cost : Once you give a miss to the tripod, track, trolley and jib, you
save lots of money due to savings on costs of attendants, technicians,
production vehicles, etc. Indirect savings include decreased conveyance,
stay and food of the manpower.

Nimble is faster : A smaller crew is always nimble. Fewer heads, fewer confusions, higher efficiency

Effect : Shooting handheld gives a new feel. When we see the Tv series ‘24’ or the Bourne Series, we get the fast paced feel. A lot of that is shot handheld.

Less Intrusions : Often Police & security guards don’t interfere when you shoot handheld.

More convenient in weddings, offices, travel shoots etc
While shooting weddings and city offices setting a tripod is not always possible. Tracks could damage the furniture or inconvenience the people around.

Shoot Professionally without a Track & a Tripod

Beware !
Shooting handheld can be tricky and can make the work look amateurish.


Depth of field in camera lenses – Simplified

Friday, April 29th, 2016



Depth of field is the zone of acceptable sharpness within a photo that will appear in focus. In every picture there is a certain area of your image in front of, and behind the subject that will appear in focus.

This zone will differ from photo to photo. Some images may have very small zones of focus which is called shallow depth of field.

Others may have a very large zone of focus which is called deep depth of field.

3 main factors that will affect how you control the depth of field of your images are:

aperture (f-stop),

distance from the subject to the camera, and

focal length of the lens on your camera.

Photography Image Size for good quality printing – Simplified

Thursday, April 28th, 2016

Most of the times the printers requests photos in dpi (dots per inch) whereas most cameras shoot in mega pixels. We have offered an easy calculation for calculating dpi from megapixels

Convert pixels to dpi Output to Monitors/Printers)

Formula: Pixels ÷ DPI = image size width X height (in inches)

Convert inches to Pixels (Input from Scanners)

Formula: width (in inches) X height (inches) X DPI = Pixels

For example of the image size required is 40 inches X 30 inches at 300 dpi than the megapixel on the camera required would be

40 X 30 X 300 = 360000 pixles (or 3.6 mega pixels)

details sourced from :


Using Snoot for Photography – Simplified

Tuesday, April 5th, 2016


What is a snoot ? A snoot is a tube that fits over a strobe or studio light to direct the light in a focused are and prevents light spill from getting into your shadows. How does a snoot help ?                                                                                         Bare-Bulb-vs-Snoot

  1. You get a small area of coverage
  2. less light spill, and
  3.  more defined edges in the light



What is the difference between using a snoot and a grid ? Using a snoot gives a harsher or harder light, adding a lot of contrast on your subject. When using a grid, the light is softer. A grid allows the light to bounce around, meaning your light is coming from multiple places, whereas a snoot directs the light without allowing it to bounce.